Saturday 18th September - Back Home

A pretty good night's sleep and less bumpy when we woke up at 7.30. The travelling kettle played a blinder for us. There is nothing like a cup of tea to start the day. Things then took a turn for the worse as the tannoy announced that we would be arriving an hour and a half late - seriously eroding the time avaiable for our connection. More tea and an outrageously expensive croissant for breakfast. It did give us plenty of time to go up on deck in the Force 7 and view the passing delights of Teesside. What a thrill!

Eventually we were sailing up the Tyne and the guest care staff had organised that we were first off the boat. As we were waiting one of the disembarking crew mentioned that he had a train to catch 20 minutes before ours. We quickly did a deal with him to share a taxi and got there just in time for him. Sod's law said that our train would be 10 minutes late and what's more going via Carlisle adding an hour and a half at least to the journey. What made it worse was that Dave had not brought his trackplans to follow the details of this fresh route.

The journey was not too bad and we got the chance to bore a couple of Americans who were on their way to visit Auld Reekie for the first time. Not many people can honestly claim to have travelled from London to Edinburgh via both Newcastle and Carlisle so I guess they have been really lucky. Alex met us at Waverley and allowed us the use of Rosena's car to drive home.

Here endeth this blog. Watch for more thrilling adventures in the near future.

Friday - How much?

Not too bad a night. The train wasn't particularly noisy. Dave slept through Berlin but did wake up for Bielefeld which brought back a few memories. By 6 a.m. everybody on the train seemed to be up and banging about so we got washed and tucked into the long life chocolate croissant provided for brekker. We stopped at Koln (Cologne) around 45 minutes late - and then did a circuit round the city before heading back out north towards Holland. It was quite difficult to spot the join when we crossed the border - the only real difference was the change in the car registration plates. We made up some time across Holland and were only 10 minutes late in Amsterdam. It must have been the superior Dutch loco that we had for this stage.


After we found a locker for our bags we went in search of reinforcements for breakfast and a a chance to get on the net. We picked a nice looking place and had coffees and a piece of apple pie each. The bill was over £15 - more than we had paid for dinner for 2 and drinks in the east. Dave had to go for a beer to get over this shock and got another. Beer is 4 times the price in Amsterdam that it is in Krakow. The sooner the euro collapses the better. Fortunately a stroll along the canals is still free and there was plenty of architecture to admire in the sunshine.


A couple of excellent sandwiches stood in for lunch by which time the weather had turned miserable. We killed time during a heavy shower by visiting the "Sissy-Boy" shop in the basement of an arcade. R wanted to visit the flower market so we made our way there. At this time of year there are more bulbs than flowers but it was quite interesting.As the rain was threatening again we treated ourselves to a tram ride back to the station. A single tram ride in Amsterdam costs more than a 24 hour ticket in Krakow!


We collected our luggage and walked out into the square in front of the station where the DFDS bus was waiting. After sitting for nearly an hour and filling up we set off on a tour round the narrow streets of the city centre to collect some punters at a hotel. By this time the Friday traffic was hotting up nicely. We eventually got to Ijmuiden and with little fuss boarded the Princess of Norway for the trip back to blighty.


Our cabin was cosy but perfectly formed although the double bed was made up with two single sheets. After a shower and a spin round the boat we went for Rosena's medicinal gins - wallet numbing process. These proved to be a necessary precaution as we were heading into force 6 winds and quite a bumpy crossing at some point. Brittanny Ferries must have ruined us because we found the buffet in the restaurant to be pretty poor in comparison and definitely not such good value. Even P&O were better. We live and learn.

Thursday - A Tram Free Day

A bit grey when we woke up. Breakfast was much more civilised today. As we had failed to gain entrance to the Botanic Garden yesterday, we asked the hotel receptionist to tell us where the main gate was, she gave us what can only be called an old fashioned look and pointed to the map we proffered indicating the street we had walked along previously. It took four goes to find the gate, tucked carefully into the corner of a university building. In the meantime the clouds had disappeared and we were enjoying brilliant sunshine. The gardens still had a few flowers and some terrific trees with lots of turning leaf colour. The hothouse was small but had some interesting specimins, the temparate house had Dave's favourites, catci. Plants are a bit like culture - it is possible to overdose - so after a spin round the palmhouse we went back to the hotel to pick up our luggage. This was deposited in a locker at the station and it was time for a refreshment.


We managed to pick a cafe full of noisy Brits so we moved on asap and took a self guided tour of the old town, followed by a spot of shopping and then lunch. This time we picked the restaurant that we didn't go to on Tuesday night - Pod Aniolami which was excellent, even when it filled up with a confused American tour party who had just got off their plane , and who were not sure whether they were having breakfast, lunch or supper. A brisk walk back through the old cloth hall took us to the station where our train was waiting.


This stage of the journey was less than brilliant even though we were in first class. One old dear objected to having any form of ventilation so the rest of us had to cook. It didn't help that this line was also undergoing major repairs and the first hour of the journey was mostly at walking pace. The 40 minutes we had allowed for a connection in Warsaw suddenly looked a bit thin but after a while the pace picked up and we were only 15 minutes late. Warsaw Central is unlikely to win prizes for architectural merit - it looked like a converted underground car park - but at least the "Jan Kiepura" was on time.


We found our economy 2 berth cabin - so small it was difficult to take a photo but not too bad. This is to be home for the next 16 hours or so. The attendant spoke only Polish and German so we had a couple of misunderstandings but eventually she produced a key so we could lock up and go to the buffet car for a beer. This train was much smarter than any of the other Polish trains that we have been on. Back in our hutch we dined on a sort of pretzel that R had bought in Krakow and a bag of Paprika crisps. Luckily we had a bottle of Tesco Aussie merlot left over from Prague to wash down this feast. And so to bed.

Wednesday - A day round Krakow

Slept well although Rosena claimed that the wrinklies woke her up at 6.30. Breakfast was buffet style and quite a scrum. Some of the vieux French types were very pushy and rude - must be Parisiens. Once we had fought our way through and grabbed a table it was a pretty decent breakfast. Today's plan was to hit the Wawel early, Krakow's ancient Citadel . This gets so busy that they limit the number of tickets sold each day but we weren't too worried as we only planned to visit the non charging areas. As we set off it had been raining but was now just overcast. There was a major tram intersection very close to the hotel and a machine selling day passes. What more could we ask for?


Once on the tram Rosena repeated her acrobatic performance last seen on a Prague tram in December, the difference being that Prague trams are red and Krakow trams blue. Polish women must be tougher than they look - R landed on three of them who hardly blinked. From the tram stop a short walk took us to the foot of the hill leading up to the Wawel. We fought our way up through the school crocodiles and guided tours to the cathedral which was impressive if you like that sort of thing but had a no photos policy. For a while we were trapped behind a vast guided tour but managed to slip out through a side exit, but not before we had seen a statue of a king with a beaver footwarmer. The copper gargoyles were also very impressive.


Once we had had our fill of medieval culture we took a short tram ride to Kazimierz, the Old Jewish Quarter. This has lots of little streets and squares, that made up the Ghetto in past times. For about £3 we got a beer, a coffee and 40 minutes internet in a pavement cafe letting us post yesterday's blog and giving Dave the chance to catch up on the football results. He wishes he hadn't bothered. We decided to look at the market in Nowy Plac and found a little stall selling earrings, which R has a problem resisting, she didn't, collecting a restaurant tip into the bargain. As some time had passsed since a refreshment we found a table at a pavement cafe opposite the market and watched the world buying lunch at a row of hot sandwich stalls. One seemed particularly busy and R decided that it would be our lunch venue. We dropped lucky as they spoke enough English to be able to take our money and the solitary table was vacated just as we got there. Zapiekanki are just the job for lunch.


In order to work off lunch we took a five mile tram trip east to Nova Huta,a Stalinist new town bulit to house steel workers. The central areas were quite impressive, including a tourist information office and signed walks. After a reviving beer we took a stroll and were stopped by a council tourism official who asked if we would mind answering a few questions. There were 3 pages of them. Dave got his own back by saying that the best thing about Krakow is the tram system. Once you get out of the centre Nova Huta is just like Cumbernauld or Corby so we hopped the next tram back to the hotel.


Our plan was to visit the Botanic Gardens on the way into town for supper but we failed to find the entrance so we went to see the big shopping centre instead. Dave treated himself to a couple of model animals for the railway. The recommended restaurant was across town so we hopped a tram to the general area and started to look for it. After 20 minutes walking up and down we showed our piece of paper to a couple of locals who pointed at a building we had walked past four times. How they laughed. We booked a table and went for a drink. R was unhappy with the first one - she said the tonic was flat so we had to go for another. On our way back to the restaurant we passed Julian and Sandy's place.


The Kampania Kuflowa (advertised as the Pod Wawelem which is why we walked past it) was brilliant. With our menus came sauerkraut and gherkins although Rosena lamented the lack of a small pot of lard. The starters were fine even though neither of us can remember what they were. We were too busy being entertained by a string and accordion trio playing the Light Programme's greatest hits. For the main course we ordered a shared meat platter with side salads. Even adjacent tables blenched as they saw it arrive. We enjoyed it up to a point at which we gave in and called a tram.

Tuesday 14th - WE'RE ON THE TRAIN!

A better night’s sleep. Must have worn the bobbles off the sheets. Another pleasant autumn day here in Prague but we have no time to dawdle. After breakfast we pack and cross the street to the Metro for our 6 stop, 1 change trip to the main railway station and the big train.When it arrives we soon find our seats and get settled in. Departure is prompt and we wend our way out via the suburbs of Prague into a quite pleasant rural landscape scattered with small villages and farms. Even the odd industrial town that we pass is freshly painted.


Dave keeps a check on the drivers navigation as we go. He seems quite competent, unlike the catering division who have failed to attach the promised dining car. We are worried that we might have to survive on 3 bananas and a bottle of water but eventually a man appears with a trolley. We purchase two “Dundee” brand sandwiches and two bottles of Budvar. Saved.


At a station on the outskirts of Ostrava we stop for an age while the Czech loco is removed and a Polish one put in its place. Somewhere most of the coaches have been removed and there are now only 4 left. The Polish loco looks well capable of whizzing us to our destination but once we are under way it becomes obvious that it has been fitted with square wheels. Dave has never known such a rough riding train and when we get into Poland it gets worse as the track is in terrible condition, waterlogged in places. Everything we see in the first hour or so in Poland is much shabbier than in Czecho.


Then we arrive on the outskirts of Katowice which looks absolutely awful. I’d rather go to Port Glasgow or Rotherham for a treat. Luckily we only have to wait there a few minutes for our connection to Krakow. A loco arrives pulling some rather ancient coaches - they still have compartments! We speed away for about two miles and then proceed at walking pace for the next hour. We are even overtaken by a goods train on a parallel track but eventually get there.


A brisk walk from the station takes us to the Hotel Chopin, a modern building catering mainly for French wrinklies. The room is compact but brightly decorated. After a cup of tea - it was worth carrying that kettle halfway round Europe - we walk into town to find something to eat.


We find a small bar where there is enough light for us to read the guidebook and choose a couple of likely looking restaurants. The nearest one is the "Peasant's Kitchen", which has customers and looks ok. Our complimentary appetiser arrives and then we discover our big mistake - the place has somehow lost its liquor licence and we are reduced to drinking water. Rosena has been missing dumplings - she orders pierogies - a platter of 15 of them. Dave orders casserole and is delivered a dish of bacon, boiled eggs and fried potatoes. Interesting. The photo shows the peasant's wife supervising the salad bar. Fortunately we had half a bottle of wine back at the hotel.

Monday - Part the Second

After the Tiger Rosena had to go for a lie down. We travelled back to the digs by tram which gives an opportunity to put a tram picture on the blog. Whilst R caught up on the Zs Dave got to work on the netbook. Delighted to see that we already have two followers but we are not complacent and have not yet ordered any loaves or fishes.


Once Rosena was suitably rested we took a tram (sorry no more pictures) to Kolkovna, a rated restaurant that did not have room for us on our last visit. Tonight they said "No reservation? You might have to wait a long time" After about five minutes we were shown to a table in a restaurant that was about half full. Once again massive plates full - rabbit for Rosena and pork for Dave - and these were after a starter! We waddled back to the tram and headed for home. Train trip tommorrow. Hurrah!

Monday 13th September 2010 - Rosena's Pub crawl

We both woke up fairly early, a result of the constant flow of trams and occasional siren under our bedroom window. Dave was sent to the bakers for breakfast at which point the sky was blue and the sun was shining but there was a very autumnal nip in the air. After breakfast we took a short tram ride and then changed onto the funicular which heads up to Petrin, a hilltop park with tremendous views of the city.


We had a pleasant walk through the woods towards the monastery and then as a special treat for Rosena we went into the Miro Gallery. This was Dave's kind of art gallery - small, artists he's heard of, some interesting pictures and best of all less than £2 each to get in.




After the culture we continued in the general direction of the castle and soon found ourselves passing the Black Ox, Rosena's favourite of all the pubs in Prague. She decided that it was time for beer. We were lucky enough to get a table and while we gently sipped our first beers of the day we tried to translate the menu using the limited glossary in our guide book. After twenty minutes the waiter took pity on us and brought an English menu. Lunch of roasted sausage, mustard, bread rolls and gherkins was excellent.


After lunch it was time to hop another tram and we were soon enjoying the trip down the hill and over the river into the city centre. We ambled through the main shopping streets, got lost in another massive Tesco and saw some of Prague's fascinating retail concepts. We went to check out the station ready for tomorrow and discovered that it is almost impossible to get there on foot. Good job it has a metro station.


After this rail based excitement we went back into the Old Town to watch the scary Astrological Clock - a statue of death rings a bell to introduce a (real) trumpeter who blows a blst for the hour. On our previous visit we had twice tried to visit the Golden tiger for a beer but could not get in because of the crowds. All sorts of famous people and even Bill Clinton have been there for a drink. I bet they didn't have to queue on the pavement because the staff couldn't be bothered to open on time. We were so disgusted with the service that we only had one beer each.